"The truth is Betta was right. You learn pasta by standing next to people who have been making it their whole lives and watching them. It seems simple, and that's because it is simple, but, characteristic of all italian cooking, it's a simplicity you have to learn. My advice: Go there. Make Betta a star. Isn't it about time? you'll have to put up with Porretta--very authentic because very ignored, and characterized by the temperamental irritability of a place that feels it has been abandoned (don't even think about getting change for a parking meter) and stay at an overpriced hotel with no bathroom, occasional water (sometimes hot), plastic walls (although wood-colored), no windows (you think there's a view?), and a dysfunctional telephone that works from noon on Sunday to early on Monday morning. And then, once you've settled in (hah!), wander down to the bottom of the valley, listening for the River Reno, and, near the old aqueduct (now housing a sewer--you'll smell it). watch out for a sign, painted by hand, virtually illegible and probably fallen down. It says "Capannina." There will be an arrow. Follow it, and after half a mile, where the river bends around itself, a peninsula of Emilia-Romagna surrounded by Tuscan, you'll find the pizzeria. Betta gets in at about four. Good luck."
The challenged has been issued. I made it a point to visit Capannina, first because I love all things Italian, second, most things Mario Batali (whom learned how to cook from Betta)does turn to delicious gold, and third, I thought it would an enjoyable meal off the beaten path.
The drive to the often neglected one stoplight town of Porretta only increased the anticipation. Jaime and I detested Bologna. Driving through the countryside up winding mountain roads left us isolated with alternating vistas of wooded green forests, snow-capped ridges, and wildflower filled fields.
Finding the restaurant proved to be nearly impossible. We drove through the town looking for the turn off the highway to no avail. Even asking a police officer, "Dov'e la pizzeria Capannina?" was fruitless, he had no idea.
Eventually we found the pizzeria, equally deserted, keeping in line with the town. We hopped out of the car and almost ran to the door. The menu had been posted outside and looked ravishing. We tried the door. It was locked. Another push, nothing. I peered in the windows looking for someone, a waiter, the owner, Betta, anyone to let us in and taste her amazing food. A man came to the door, unlocked it, and told us that the restaurant would be open for dinner. We asked if it were possible to eat lunch, but he refused. With that, he said goodbye, locked the door, and returned to the table where he and his brother were eating their lunch.
We were defeated. Our plans spoiled, we shuffled back to the car to process what had just happened. We had finally found the place and now we couldn't eat there. They were only open for dinner because it was early part of the summer season. We couldn't wait another 4 hours until dinner. And even if it were possible, what would we have done here? There was nothing. We could drive around but surely that wouldn't last for four hours.
"I guess it means we have to come back." Jaime said finally, looking at it positively. His statement was exactly right. We would have to come back another year. Our time in Italy was nearing its end. Not eating at Capannina offered hope for the future. A chance for a return trip to this beautiful country. Looking at the rejection of a meal as unfinished business transformed our negative energy into something more positive: the potential to return and try again. It had worked in Capri and hopefully it would work in Porretta. We made our promise to try again soon by making a pact to return to Italy after we finished college in the states. I have patience, although waning,it still remains. One day, I will meet Betta and truly thank her for a wonderful meal.
Our meal in Porretta will have to come another day. We trek northeast, to the sea port of Venice (2 cities above Porretta)
Our meal in Porretta will have to come another day. We trek northeast, to the sea port of Venice (2 cities above Porretta)
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